Where to stay in Morzine and the Portes du Soleil

Why go

Morzine sits in a steep, green valley in the Haute-Savoie, in the Chablais Alps close to the Swiss border. It has the feel of a real mountain town rather than a resort built from scratch: timber balconies, old farmhouses between the newer chalets, a river running through the middle and a main street where locals still do their shopping. That character is a large part of its charm, and it makes for relaxed holidays when you are not on the slopes.

Morzine is also the best known gateway to the Portes du Soleil, a vast linked ski area that crosses the border into Switzerland. For a group, that is the great advantage of staying here. Beginners, keen skiers and people who simply want a good coffee with a mountain view can all be happy under one roof, and a private chalet gives you a kitchen table big enough for everyone at the end of the day.

Towns and villages

Morzine itself is the natural base. You can walk to shops, bakeries and restaurants, and a cable car lifts you from the edge of town into the ski area. Montriond, a short way up its own side valley, is quieter and greener, with a village feel and the lake on its doorstep. It suits families and anyone who likes to wake up to birdsong rather than ski boots.

Les Gets, over the pass on the other side of Morzine, is a cheerful village with a traditional centre and a well loved museum of mechanical music. Avoriaz, perched high above Morzine, is a car free resort with a very distinctive wood clad look and direct access to the snow and the bike trails. Further down the valley, the Vallée d’Aulps is the calm, rural cousin, with the ruins of a medieval abbey and plenty of room to breathe.

Things to do

In winter the skiing is the draw, but the Portes du Soleil is just as good for snowshoeing, sledging and long lunches on a sunny terrace. In summer the lifts keep running for walkers and mountain bikers, and the area is known across Europe for its downhill and cross country trails, including the famous Swiss Wall near Avoriaz. Paragliding over the valley is a popular way to see it all from above.

The Lac de Montriond is the summer highlight for many families. Ringed by forest and fed by mountain streams, it has a path round the shore, picnic spots and quiet corners for a swim or a paddle on a warm day. Higher up, the Lac de Joux Plane rewards a walk or a drive with big views, while the Pont du Diable gorge and the Cascade d’Ardent are easy, atmospheric outings when the children need something shorter than a full mountain day.

Food and drink

This is cheese country, and the Savoyard table is generous. Expect tartiflette made with Reblochon, raclette scraped onto potatoes, bubbling fondue and the local Abondance cheese, along with hearty sausages called diots and little pasta squares known as crozets. After a day outside there is nothing better, and many hosts will happily point you to a favourite farm shop or cheese counter so you can cook it all at home in your chalet.

Pair it with a crisp white from Savoie, or a mug of hot chocolate by the fire if the snow is falling. In summer, mountain restaurants and lakeside terraces make lunch part of the day out.

Getting there

Geneva Airport is the closest major airport and the usual way in for visitors from the UK and further afield, with road transfers and hire cars covering the last stretch up the valley. If you prefer the train, high speed services from Paris reach Geneva Cornavin station, and regional trains serve Cluses and Thonon-les-Bains, from where you continue by road. A car is useful in summer for reaching trailheads and the lake, though the area has seasonal shuttle buses too.

When to go

The ski season runs through the winter months, with the deepest snow usually in the heart of the season, while early and late weeks are often quieter and sunnier. Summer, from June to September, is the time for lakes, walking and biking, and the lifts and mountain restaurants are at their busiest. Spring and autumn are calm and beautiful, though some lifts and restaurants close for a break, so check what you need before you book.