Where to stay in the Limousin and Haute-Vienne

Why go

The Limousin, now part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, is rolling green country of small farms, woods, streams and lakes. The Haute-Vienne, its western heart, is wonderfully uncrowded. Roads are empty, villages are unhurried and you are rarely far from a quiet place to walk, swim or simply sit in the garden with a book.

It is also a generous place for a family or a group of friends, with the space of a proper country house and the freedom to cook, eat and relax on your own schedule, which is why so many people come back for a second visit. If your idea of a holiday is a big, comfortable house, a table outside and a different gentle day out each morning, this is the place.

Towns and villages

Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche is a pleasant market town and a good base for the southern Haute-Vienne. It has a particular place in history, because it was near here that the kaolin clay was found that made Limoges porcelain possible. Limoges itself is a handsome city of half-timbered lanes, a fine cathedral and a famous railway station, all easy to reach for a day out.

Further afield, Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat is a charming old town on a pilgrim route, and Rochechouart combines a castle with a contemporary art collection. Châlus has a castle with a famous story, as the place where Richard the Lionheart met his end in 1199, and the little villages in between are just the kind you stumble on and want to stay in.

Things to do

Limoges and porcelain go hand in hand. The Musée national Adrien Dubouché holds a superb collection, and several historic manufacturers welcome visitors to see how the delicate pieces are made and decorated. It is a surprisingly absorbing outing, even for those who thought porcelain was not for them.

A visit to Oradour-sur-Glane is a more sombre experience, and an important one. The village was destroyed in June 1944 and the ruins have been left as they were, with a memorial centre alongside. It is a place for quiet reflection, and visitors of all ages are treated with care. For lighter days, the lakes offer swimming, sailing and lakeside strolls, while the region’s forests and greenways are lovely for cycling and walking.

Food and drink

The Limousin is famous for its beef, from the reddish Limousin cattle that graze the pastures, and for chestnuts, mushrooms and apples, including the local Pomme du Limousin. The traditional cherry clafoutis is said to come from this part of France, so a slice for dessert feels entirely appropriate.

Local markets and farm shops are the best place to stock a holiday kitchen, and a barbecue in the garden with regional beef is a fine way to end the day. The region’s oak is also prized by makers of barrels for ageing wines and spirits.

Getting there

Limoges-Bellegarde is the nearest airport, with Brive and Bergerac also within reach by road. By train, Limoges-Bénédictins station has direct services from Paris, while Poitiers is the nearest stop on the high speed line. A hire car makes the most of the countryside, and the quiet roads are a pleasure to drive.

When to go

Late spring, summer and early autumn are the best seasons, with long green days for the lakes and the lanes. September and October bring mushrooms, chestnuts and soft light. Winters are quiet and can be cool, so this is a region best enjoyed from spring through to autumn.