Where to stay in the Charente, Cognac and Angoulême

Why go

The Charente is a quietly beautiful part of western France, all vineyards, sunflower fields, stone farmhouses and the lazy loops of the river that gives the department its name. It is well off the usual tourist trails, yet easy to reach, and it rewards visitors who like to explore at their own pace, stopping for a market, a church or a riverside picnic whenever something catches the eye.

It is also a wonderful base for exploring further. The Atlantic coast and its oyster beds are within reach, the Dordogne is to the east, and the countryside in between is dotted with Romanesque churches, castles and charming villages. A holiday cottage with a garden and a shady spot for lunch is all you need to feel at home.

Towns and villages

Angoulême sits on a rocky spur above the Charente, with ramparts, a Romanesque cathedral and a lively old centre. It is also the capital of the comic strip in France, and its walls are decorated with colourful murals that you can follow on foot, turning an ordinary stroll into a treasure hunt.

Cognac, further west, is a graceful river town where the great houses have their cellars and warehouses, and it is the birthplace of King François I. Jarnac, a short way upstream, is another cognac town with a pretty riverfront. Out in the countryside, Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is one of the loveliest villages in France, famous for its church carved from the rock, and La Rochefoucauld has a magnificent Renaissance château.

Things to do

Visiting a cognac house is the obvious treat. The famous names, such as Hennessy, Martell and Rémy Martin in Cognac and Courvoisier in Jarnac, offer tours that explain how the spirit is distilled and aged, and finish with a tasting. Smaller family producers are happy to welcome guests too, and often make the most memorable visits.

In Angoulême, the international comics festival takes over the city each January, and the comic strip museum and murals can be enjoyed all year. On the river, you can take a gentle boat trip or hire a canoe or kayak and drift past willows and old mills. Cyclists will find quiet lanes and a good network of routes through the vineyards.

Food and drink

Cognac is made from white wine, usually from Ugni Blanc grapes, distilled twice in copper stills and aged in oak barrels, and there is a world of difference between a young fine and a long aged bottle. The region also makes Pineau des Charentes, a sweet aperitif of grape juice and cognac, which is lovely chilled before dinner.

On the plate, look for Charentais melons in summer, the excellent AOP Charentes-Poitou butter, goat’s cheese and seafood from the nearby coast, including oysters from Marennes-Oléron. Local markets are the best places to stock up for a long lunch outdoors.

Getting there

Bordeaux-Mérignac, La Rochelle, Poitiers-Biard and Limoges-Bellegarde are the airports that serve the area, all within reach by road. Angoulême is on the high speed line from Paris Montparnasse, which makes a train journey from Paris quick and easy, and regional trains run to Cognac and Jarnac. A car is handy for the villages and vineyards.

When to go

Late spring and summer bring long warm days and sun-soaked terraces, with the vines at their greenest. Early autumn is the time of the grape harvest, when the countryside is at its most atmospheric. January belongs to the comics festival in Angoulême, which is a lively moment to visit, though accommodation can be busier then.